- Select appropriate PPE (personal protection equipment). Provide adequate ventilation. Refer to MSDS.
- Work across the narrowest dimension of an area where practical.
- Work to an exit from wet product.
- To track coverage rate for each kit, after establishing room dimensions, before mixing commences, place a short piece of masking tape on the wall to correspond to the “distance” one premeasured kit should cover.
Mask all areas requiring protection; product will stick to just about everything.
Mixing and handling:
- Organize mixing station that neither has to relocate, nor block the progress of application. Staging is critical so that Part A and part B are not confused with one another or mixed too far in advance. Once A and B are mixed, the catalyzed product should be placed on the floor immediately. If left in the pail too long, product will cure at an accelerated rate rendering it useless.
- Mechanically mix part A with “Jiffy” style mixer blade for 3 minutes at medium speed to insure pigment dispersal.
- Pour 1 part B into 4 parts A. Note that kits are premeasured for convenience. Exercise care to avoid pouring product down the sides of the pail, as this will be difficult to mix.
- Mechanically mix both parts A and B with “Jiffy” style mixer blade for 3 minutes at medium speed. Jiffy mixer at medium speed will help prevent air entraining.
- You may thin Dura-Kote Pigmented Epoxy WB after it has been catalized with water up to 15% (19oz per gallon), to aenhance absorbtion when porous conditions require more penetration. Note thining may also reduce color hide.
- Pour contents completely out in a fairly long trail for application. Any unused portion left in the pail can cure at an accelerated rate rendering it useless.
- Do not leave pail upside down to drain onto floor. Any unmixed portion of A or B that may have accidentally been placed onto side of pail can now drain down onto the floor, creating a spot that will not cure.
- Clean out or replace mixing pails, mixer blades, and roller covers in a reasonable fashion, so that the chemistry of A and B remain consistent, especially over large projects.
- Spiked shoes are required throughout application
- Select spreader
- A squeegee or a roller ranging in nap size from mohair to 3/8” (9.5 mm) may be appropriate.
- Rollers should be premium quality with phenolic core.
- “De-fuzz” roller by wrapping tightly with masking tape and removing tape.
- Large areas may require 18” (46 cm) rollers and wider squeegees
- Spread product evenly over area. Areas adjacent to walls may be “cut in” by brush.
- Backrolling: After achieving the appropriate coverage, begin progressively backrolling Primer Coat. Roller covers will require replacing periodically to prevent catalyzed product from setting up on roller cover or contaminating more freshly placed material.
Note: Primer Coat may “stand alone” as a single coat depending upon application system selected, or applicator and client choice. Or a single coat of Dura-Kote Pigmented Epoxy WB may proceed to a Finish Coat of another Dura-Kote product as described later in this spec. sheet (see ladder chart above.)
If the Primer Coat has cured dry to the touch, and is no longer tacky (refer to cure rates listed above as a guide) repeat all steps of application listed above. Planning, masking, mixing and handling, and application are identical in Top Coat.
If the Primer Coat has cured beyond 12 - 24 hours or if dust or debris has settled into it as it cured, it must be screened with a rotational floor machine equipped with a 100 grit sanding screen. Follow screening with vacuuming. Follow vacuuming with a micro-fiber wipe with a solvent such as acetone, or denatured alcohol.
Note: The Top Coat may complete the project, and does not necessarily require a Finish Coat (see ladder chart above.) However, for enhanced durability and chemical resistance, a Finish Coat may be selected. Additionally, a Finish Coat may become the “carrier” for slip resistant agents for areas that may become wet, oily, or greasy when brought into service.
There are several choices that have varying advantages for the Finish Coat:
- Dura-Kote Polyurethane SB (gloss) – high gloss
- Dura-Kote Polyurethane WB (gloss) – low VOC
- Dura-Kote Polyurethane WB (satin) – tone down the gloss
- Dura-Kote PFC-120 – quick dry
- Dura-Kote PFC-180 – quick dry, moderate build
If the Top Coat has cured dry to the touch and is no longer tacky (refer to cure rates listed above as a guide) repeat all steps of application listed above. Planning, masking, mixing and handling, and application are identical for Finish Coat.
If Top Coat has cured beyond 12 -24 hours or if dust or debris has settled into it as it cured, it must be screened with a rotational floor machine equipped with a 100 grit sanding screen. Follow screening with vacuuming. Follow vacuuming with a micro-fiber wipe with a solvent such as xylene, acetone, or denatured alcohol.
For specific directions on finish coat refer to the appropriate spec. sheet.
A Sacrificial Coat is not required, but will add further protection to the finished product. The Sacrificial Coat may be applied at any step following a “stand alone” Primer Coat (see the ladder chart above.) SureFinish provides a protective Sacrificial Coat, a measure of slip resistance, and is available in gloss and matte, as a simple mop on product.